Walking the Appalachian Trail

It’s three in the afternoon on day four of my walk. After waking at 8am from another restless chilly night in my tent, the falling rain from all day yesterday had transformed to snow this morning. I spent over an hour trying to get my frozen gear thawed out. The temperature dropped well below freezing and has stayed there most of the day. All I can think about is trudging through the snow towards the Low Gap shelter area, still several miles away, to set up camp and avoid dying of hypothermia.

My Appalachian Trail hike started on a 50 degree sunny day at Amacolola Falls State Park in Georgia. I didn’t know what was to come, but I was full of optimism and a sense of adventure. This quickly changed at 4am on day 3 when a violent thunderstorm moved in to my solo camp on top of a 3,200 foot mountain. This turned into a very wet weather system and I walked the next 11 miles in the pouring rain. I had made it to Neels Gap, about 39 miles from where I started. It is estimated that almost 1 in 4 people who intend to hike the entire 2,000 mile Appalachian Trail drop out by Neels Gap. When I first heard about that statistic, I thought it couldn't possibly be true. But now I see how people can have an idealistic view of walking the Appalachian Trail quickly shattered by an 11 mile day of cold, wet rain.

This was the first point in the trip where I briefly thought about dropping out myself. But, I quickly decided that I wasn’t quite ready to end my trip. Besides, in the words of one fellow AT hiker, if you make the decision to drop out, always do it on a bright, sunny day.
The next day, the rain turned to snow and I walked 11 miles to Low Gap shelter. I spent a very cold night in my tent. The temperature dropped into the teens.

On day 5, I walked 15 miles. Another cold night. I was finding that spending 12 hours in your tent was challenging for me. I would go to bed around 8 or 9pm because it was too cold to stay out of my bag, and I wouldn’t get up until after 8am because I wanted the sunlight and any warmth I could get in the morning. This was one of the most challenging parts of the trip for me...sleeping and the down time when not hiking.

On day 6, I walked about 11 miles to Hiawasee Gap. I met my first "trail angel" He gave me water, a snickers bar, an apple, an amazing growing towel tablet, and a cigarette. Plus a ride to my second hostel stay on the trail. (I stayed in a hostel before starting the trail) Trail Angels are people who volunteer and wait at the major roads that cross the AT. They give you free food, water, support, whatever...The hostels are like vacations from the trail. For many hikers, once they stop at a hostel, they find it very hard to go back to the trail. I would hear stories from the owners of grown adults literally crying when they were taken back to the trail to resume hiking.
Now you might be assuming that I am all alone out in the wilderness. Sometimes this is true, but often there are a lot of other people out there too. The hostels and shelters were usually full. I can’t begin to tell you how many people I met. There were a lot of interesting hikers along the trail with various goals and ideas about the experience.

Day 7, I walked about 13 miles. I am amazed by my immune system. After many days of rain, snow, cold weather, constant punishment, and limited food, I was still not sick. Many times, I felt that I was possibly coming down with a cold, only to find about 12 hours later, I was strong like an ox. I am made to walk in these mountains! Thank you, God.
More rain today and another cold night. (I probably noticed it more after spending last night in a warm hostel on a king sized mattress.) This night, I spent the night around a campfire with 3 hikers, including Traveler Dave. He was living on the trail more so than the rest of us. This was like his home. He made bamboo flutes using the fire...he cooked using a big iron pot on the open fire...he used old fashioned gear and techniques to get by.

On days, 10 and 11, I made the decision to end my hike walking in the rain. I finished at the Nantahala Outdoor Center in Wesser, North Carolina. The Smoky Mountains were just ahead and it was going to be tougher, colder, snowier, and rainier. I was done for now. A total of 144 miles in 11 days. An experience that I really can’t convey in words. It is one that you have to do yourself. This is the longest I have backpacked.

What I have learned:

I enjoy backpack trips of up to 3 days. I really enjoy being connected to the Internet. I am a fair weather hiker/backpacker. I don’t enjoy the cold, snowy, and rainy days. I would not be interested in hiking a long distance trail. I need a large social outlet of people to hang with on a regular basis. (I miss the city life) I don’t enjoy solitude for long periods of time. I really love the Western U.S. when it comes to the natural scenery. (Among other aspects)

I spent the night in my tent at the NOC along the Nantahala River. The next day, I hitchhiked in record time. From the moment I arrived on the side of the road, I waited about one minute for a ride straight to Asheville. (about 60 miles away) The driver was a nice, normal, guy in his early 30's. He wouldn't accept money, and he got me to Asheville safely and in good time, with good music and conversation. So, does this beat Greyhound? Free, safe, and with no wait times! I guess it depends on your ride.

Next topic - Life In Asheville

Quick Update:

I am leaving Florida on a Greyhound in a couple hours. Next stop: Springer Mountain, Georgia. I intend to walk on the Appalachian Trail for a while. I'm not sure yet where the next stop will be...I am planning to walk to Hot Springs, North Carolina. After that, I might spend time in Asheville, NC? Oregon? California? Washington? Wyoming? Mexico? Vancouver, B.C. - A different reason for each place.

I will write more later.